I'm building this costume from the inside out. Shift, bumroll, and farthingale first, then the skirt, top and coat.
Underpinnings:
The shift I made by creating straps and taking two lengths of muslin sewn together with a gore on either side to give more fullness across my hips. The front has a tuck in the center.
The bumroll was the second one I made from the Simplicity 3782. The first didn't look quite right with the finished farthingale, so I whipped up a second that's smaller and doesn't go so far around my hips.
The farthingale was interesting to work on. I printed three different sets of directions to make one, and bought my materials. They were:
1a. really nice weight sheets I've been meaning to use for something -- Not lightweight, but the heavier ones available. I'd used these for curtains and they're somewhat faded from their original color. Right now they're a yellowy green shade. I see no reason to fiddle with the color. They'll be covered, right?
1b. plain sturdy cotton for bias strips
2. plastic tubing for the hoop part -- from Lowes in the plumbing dept.
3. connectors -- You should have seen the look the guy in Lowes gave me when I told him what the connectors and tubing were for! He blinked for several seconds, then said, "Ooo-kay." Hey, he asked!
4. notions -- thread, super heavy use needles, etc.
The directions I ended up using were here, Making a Period Farthingale. I found them easy and quick. Honestly, the Elizabethan Costume Page has been the best help so far.
I did also make a corset from directions on the Elizabethan Costume Page, but I don't think I'm going to use the corset with this costume. I plan on building a corset into the top itself instead. On a side note, this corset was the quickest, easiest one I've made yet. I had it done in less than 24 hours.
Bodice: I started out using Simplicity 3782. I hate this bodice pattern with the fires of millions of suns. However, sheer stubborness wouldn't let me throw it out the window and use something else. After several muslins and many changes, I had something I was satisfied with. A picture below of one of the earlier muslins with sleeves attached. Also below are two pictures of the sequined beaded triangle in progress and completed.
Sleeves: The shape works for both the inner and outer sleeve.
Skirt: I used the underskirt pattern and have four panels total. I like how it looks.
For the couching, I enlarged photos to the size I needed, then used dressmaker's tracing paper to add the design to my fabric. The cording is rayon bourdon cording ordered online and dyed purple-blue.
The choker: I made the choker out of fun foam.
1.) Cut the pieces.
2.) Used Spectra Paints clear effect to make the 'frame' on the rectangle pieces.
3) Sealed with the glue method.
4.) Glued the pieces together.
5.) Several coats of gold craft paint.
I'm using pretty ribbon to fasten it at the back. I like it, it was cheap, it's light, and if it bites the dust at one wearing, I can make another easily with minimal effort.
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